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Lowering the car. What to do first?
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Posted by: nomad_dave

Maybe OF a.k.a Old Fart can answer this one since I've followed all of his trials and tribulations with his suspension. If I do decide to lower my car say 1.5" or so. Do I install the lowering kit (springs, shocks, struts, etc.) first and then do the control arms after, before, during? How far off spec will the pinion angle be after the car gets lowered and will it damage anything if I drive the car until I can do the control arm changes? Can the control arm changes be reset/adjusted by myself or is there anything special in the way of tools that need to be purchased. Any ideas and thoughts are always appreciated.

BTW, I'll be in Punta Gorda Florida visiting the inlaws some time in April so if you are around, I'd love to check out your car. Any excuse to get away from the inlaws.

Cheers,
David V.

Posted by: OldFart

Quote:

Originally Posted by nomad_dave

Maybe OF a.k.a Old Fart can answer this one since I've followed all of his trials and tribulations with his suspension. If I do decide to lower my car say 1.5" or so. Do I install the lowering kit (springs, shocks, struts, etc.) first and then do the control arms after, before, during? How far off spec will the pinion angle be after the car gets lowered and will it damage anything if I drive the car until I can do the control arm changes? Can the control arm changes be reset/adjusted by myself or is there anything special in the way of tools that need to be purchased. Any ideas and thoughts are always appreciated.

BTW, I'll be in Punta Gorda Florida visiting the inlaws some time in April so if you are around, I'd love to check out your car. Any excuse to get away from the inlaws.

Cheers,
David V.

David,

I'm not sure if I can give a good answer, since I'm still fooling with my own suspension in a, thus far, vain attempt to get it right.

As far as the order of performing changes:

1. Install the lowering kit first. Preferably with aftermarket struts/dampers at the same time if you intend to change the stock units out. You won't know how much camber adjustment you will need until the lowering is done.

2. At the same time as the lowering kit, install an adjustable upper 3rd link so the pinion angle can be re-set. You can always install after-market lowers at a later date if initial cost is a concern. With regard to correct pinon angle, trust Steeda. I have found that there is considerable confusion on the part of major manufacturers regarding pinion angle. Metco will provide one setting, BMR another. Only Steeda provides the formula for computing the correct "down angle" (probably somewhere between 1 and 3 degrees down-angle), so I have to recommend their part.

3. Regarding doing it yourself - only if you have platform style lift available (the drive-on type). The suspension needs to be loaded to set the pinion angle and it's not easy to get the 3rd link installed even on a lift. This is not something you want to try in the driveway. You will also need a pinion angle gauge which is about $40.00. Most qualified shops will perform the install and set the pinion angle for less than $100.00 labor. Driving a short distance or even a few hundred miles prior to re-seting pinion probably won't harm anything. You'll know the potential for damage by how much vibration you feel and the amount of additional noise. It's best just to get both done at the same time.

3. For camber adjustment, you may be able to get by with an inexpensive set of camber bolts. These can be had for around $20.00 off Ebay and are sold for about the same price from numerous suspension websites. You will need a re-alignment after the lowering kit install and this is the best time to have the camber bolts installed. However, if you lower over 1.5" you may want to consider a bump-steer kit to correct front suspension geometry and/or a control arm relocation kit. Steeda has this also although it is way overpriced for what you get. You're paying for the R&D.

4. If I had it to do over again....(because I probably will do it over again). I would spend the extra money and get the new Koni height adjustable coil-over system from Ground Control, http://www.ground-control-store.com/...hp/II=666/CA=4

or the new Tein Flex damper height adjustable, front and rear coil-over set-up. http://www.tein.com/ti/g12.html (bottom of page)

While neither of these systems are inexpensive, they do have their advantages. The obvious advantage of either of these systems (among many) is being able to adjust the ride height without having to change springs. Right now I'm leaning towards the Koni set-up just because I already know the product and have used them in the past. (I was running Koni's on a Lotus 35 years ago.) But the Tein set also offers an option to add electric actuators and a contol module to the set-up, allowing in-cab damper adjustment on the fly. Pretty slick, but it's difficult for an old die-hard like me to buy Jap parts for American iron.

So I'm still prevaricating about this. But I'll make up my mind soon.

OldFart

Posted by: nomad_dave

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldFart

David,

I'm not sure if I can give a good answer, since I'm still fooling with my own suspension in a, thus far, vain attempt to get it right.

OldFart

Thanks so much, this is why I was hoping you would reply. I've read about your pains and suffering. My basic goal is to have a really nice handling car that if I was to put it to a road cross challenge, I would handle the twist and turns with great ease. Now that the research has started, I'll give myself some time to keep learning more. I like the idea of having an adjustable system. Let me know if this is your final solution. I'd hate to go through the same issues you have been fighting with.

Much appreciated for all of the help.

Cheers,
David