Originally Posted by Aussie XAXB

That is outrageous and rediculous. How many amps do you need? Shop around, you should do a LOT better than that. I know you can get a 100 amp chrome alternator, if you need that much, for about $100. That is kinda cheap. $150 would be nice and feel a little more confident.

Just had a thought, is it for a 4.6? That probably would make a huge difference.

Steve

Originally Posted by BIGJ

Yikes!!!!!! that alot of cake for a alternator!!
It should work fine....are you running a monster stereo system.....hydraulics???
Why not use a Steeda chrome alternator cover and save about $350?

Originally Posted by BIGJ

paint the original one with chrome paint..........................lol

Originally Posted by Aussie XAXB

http://verizonsupersite.com/4alterst...putalternators

Your other alternative is to get as many parts together as you would like to have chromed. The more you have to chrome the cheaper it is per part and you can get things done reasonably.

Steve

Originally Posted by Aussie XAXB

A regular replacement would cost about $165. They will chrome plate a hundred of the housings at a time and it will be cheap for them. They are still making money and you are only paying above the $165 for a chrome housing that may have only cost them $12 or less to have done in bulk. The price is good and I would grab it if I didn't have a bunch of things to take a chromer.

Steve

Originally Posted by Matt94GT

lol i love guys that are scared of ebay. I've saved literally thousands then getting from mustang sites.

Originally Posted by Aussie XAXB

I haven't played with the 3G alternators but I don't understand why you would need to have it rewound. The windings (the actual wires wound into a coil shape) are protected by a varnish that is on them when they are wound. This keeps them from connecting and melting into one big copper blob. They are securely mounted in the stator and are not going anywhere. You remove the stator with the windings in it. It is a very solid unit.


BTW I used to work at an electric motor repair shop so I kinda know about these things. The only trick you may have to deal with is getting the commutator (part of the shaft) back into the brushes, but there is a trick to it. They got it together at the factory, you can do it the same way. Just make sure you have a paperclip.

Steve

Originally Posted by RRRAAAYYY2

The 3g is a pretty simple animal. Take the regulator off the back first, the 4 little torx head screws. Then undo the three thru bolts. Take a hammer and knock the rear housing off.
Hear is the tricky part. The stator and rectifier are soldered together. It is a lot easier if they stay together but you need to beware not to break the wire conenctions where they join. The stator sometimes will corrode itself into the front housing. Take a hammer and try to tap the front housing free off the stator assemble. There is a fine line between hitting it hard enough and hitting it too hard.
Another alternative is to turn it upside down in a vice. Then take a small punch and go through the vanes in the front housing and tap the stator ring. Extreme caution needs to be used because if you hit the wires you are going to need to replace the stator.
Once that is out I would inspect the slip ring, the two copper bands on the rotor, they are known for wearing out. If they are down about a 1/16" I would get a new rotor. I would also consider replacing the brushes and bearings while you are at it. If you put a little loctite on the out race of the rear bearing you can upgrade it to a 6-2000 (think) which is 40percent larger than the stock bearing.
When reassembling put some anti seize on the steel ring of the stator where it mounts into the front housing.

Whn it comes to chroming there are so many different levels of quality in prep and finish. Bare minimum for a quality finish i would expect the two housings ot be $100. Want a brighter better prepped finish then twice that. The cheap chrome looks great for a bit then 6 months to a year later it is pitted and flaking.